Northeast Paris is a true haven for leisure-seekers and party-goers alike – although both types of Parisians are not always out at the same time of the day.
The Bassin de la Villette seems like a peaceful oasis away from the hectic traffic, a place to relax during a game of pétanque by the water, or sharing a beer with friends on a colorful peniche. And what can one say about the bucolic Parc des Buttes-Chaumont, one of the largest green spaces in the French capital? Don’t miss its most excentric features, such as the replica of an ancient Roman temple crowning a hill surrounded by water, or a hidden underground waterfall.
The environment changes drastically when venturing further north. Built over the legendary slaughterhouse district that smoked out the surrounding neighborhoods of Eastern Paris for nearly a century, the Parc de la Villette is a retrofuturistic area that always manages to surprise. Around the massive Cité des Sciences, the vast green space features a wide range of live music venues – it’s no wonder many Parisians converge from all arrondissements to party there until dawn.
SIGHTS AND ATTRACTIONS
Bassin de la Villette
The Bassin de la Villette seems like a peaceful oasis away from the hectic traffic, a place to relax during a game of pétanque by the water, or sharing a beer with friends on a colorful peniche. The Canal Saint-Martin starts south of the elevated Stalingrad metro station. In the opposite direction, the green lawns and music venues of La Villette are just a short walk along the pleasant Canal de l’Ourcq.
Quai de Loire & Quai de Seine, 75019 Paris
Butte Bergeyre
Like a charming little village perched atop a hill overlooking the Parc des Buttes-Chaumont, the Butte Bergeyre ranks among the few micro-neighborhoods spared by the Parisian traffic. Standing at an altitude of 100 meters (330 feet), this residential – and rather wealthy – neighborhood is lined with many houses and villa, some vines, and a community garden. It also offers some of the best views of Paris’ most famous hill, Montmartre! We can only recommend to enter from the staircase located at 54 Avenue Simon Bolivar, celebrated in a 1950 photograph by Willy Ronis.
Rue Georges Lardennois, 75019 Paris
*An article exploring the Butte Bergeyre in details will be published soon… Stay tuned!*
Canal Saint-Martin
See Neighborhood Guide – République, Oberkampf and the Canal Saint-Martin
Mouzaïa Neighborhood
Standing on former gypsum quarries, “La Mouzaïa” is undoubtedly one of the most atypical neighborhoods of the French capital! Between the Danube metro station and the Rue de Bellevue, two dozen pedestrian alleyways form a charming maze flanked by former working-class houses and a few workshops. The heart of the neighborhood is at the crossroad of the very “Républicain” triangle shaped by the Rue de l’Égalité, Rue de la Fraternité and Rue de la Liberté.
Rue de la Mouzaïa / Rue de l’Égalité / Rue de la Fraternité / Rue de la Liberté, 75019 Paris
*An article exploring the Mouzaïa neighborhood in details will be published soon… Stay tuned!*
Les Orgues de Flandre
Built in 1980 in the north of the 19th arrondissement, the housing project “Les Orgues de Flandre” remains one of the most striking examples of modern architecture in the Parisian landscape.
Allée des Orgues de Flandre, 75019 Paris
Parc des Buttes-Chaumont
Built over 150 years ago on the site of a gypsum and limestone quarry to provide greenery to the Parisian working-class, the bucolic Parc des Buttes-Chaumont is one of the largest green spaces in the French capital. Don’t miss its most excentric features, such as the replica of an ancient Roman temple crowning a hill surrounded by water, or a hidden underground waterfall.
Parc des Buttes-Chaumont, 75019 Paris
Parc de la Villette
Parc de la Villette, 75019 Paris
+33 (0)1 40 03 75 75
https://lavillette.com
Cité de la Musique
221 Avenue Jean Jaurès, 75019 Paris
+33 (0)1 44 84 44 84
philharmoniedeparis.fr
Cité des Sciences et de l’Industrie
30 Avenue Corentin Cariou, 75019 Paris
+33 (0)1 40 05 70 00
www.cite-sciences.fr
Le Centquatre
104 Rue d’Aubervilliers, 75019 Paris
+33 (0)1 53 35 50 01
www.104.fr
Grande Halle de la Villette
211 Avenue Jean Jaurès, 75019 Paris
+33 (0)1 40 03 75 75
lavillette.com
Le Plateau
22 Rue des Alouettes, 75019 Paris
+33 (0)1 76 21 13 41
www.fraciledefrance.com
Saint-Serge Orthodox Church
Hiding between a few blocks at the edge of the Parc des Buttes-Chaumont, the Saint-Serge Orthodox Church is one of the best kept secrets of Eastern Paris. With two entrances from Rue de Crimée and Rue Meynadier opened in the daytime, the passages surrounding the wooden church offer a rare glimpse of Parisian urbanism.
93 Rue de Crimée, 75019 Paris
+33 (0)1 60 46 00 60
www.saint-serge.fr
LODGING
Generator Hostel
Opened in 2015, this state-of-the-art hostel boasts some impressive features including a café, a restaurant, and a lively rooftop bar offering great views of the city. The property is located right above line 2 of the Metro, and is only a short walk away from the Canal Saint-Martin and the charming Saint-Marthe neighborhood.
9-11 Place du Colonel Fabien, 75010 Paris
+33 (0)1 70 98 84 00
ask.paris@generatorhostels.com
https://generatorhostels.com/destinations/paris
St Christopher Inn Paris Canal
Overlooking the peaceful Bassin de la Villette, this modern hostel opened in 2008 boasts an ideal location to explore areas such as Montmartre and Eastern Paris. There are many attractions nearby, such as the greenery of Parc des Buttes-Chaumont, the cultural center Centquatre, or the concert venues of La Villette.
159 Rue de Crimée, 75019 Paris
+33 (0)140 343 440
canal@st-christophers.co.uk
https://www.st-christophers.co.uk/hostels/europe/paris/canal
Peace and Love Hostel
Comfort may be basic, but budget travelers will certainly appreciate the low prices. This lively hostel is located by the busy Stalingrad métro station, where the hip Canal Saint-Martin meets the banks of the relaxed Bassin de la Villette. A great location for those hoping to enjoy the nightlife during their stay. Age 35 and under.
245 Rue La Fayette, 75010 Paris
+33 (0)01 46 07 65 11
pl@paris-hostel.com
http://www.paris-hostels.com
RESTAURANTS
Au Boeuf Couronné
188 Avenue Jean Jaurès, 75019 Paris
+33 (0)1 42 39 44 44
www.boeuf-couronne.com
À l’Endroit
9 Rue du Tunnel, 75019 Paris
+33 (0)1 53 38 57 58
alendroitrestaurant.wixsite.com
Les Bancs Publics
2 Rue de Nantes, 75019 Paris
+33 (0)9 80 76 36 71
www.les-bancs-publics.fr
Café Jean
181 Avenue Jean Jaurès, 75019 Paris
+33 (0)1 40 34 72 67
cafejean.paris
Chez Louis
13 Rue des Ardennes, 75019 Paris
+33 (0)1 42 45 64 51
Les Chics Types
Ideally located between the Bassin de la Villette and the Parc des Buttes-Chaumont, this pleasant eatery serves drinks, burgers and salads on a large terrace. Good to know: “the nice guys” welcome you from 9am to 2am.
20 Avenue de Laumière, 75019 Paris
les-chics-types.com
L’Escargot
This classic Parisian bistrot, located at a street corner of the lively Rue de la Villette, is a haven for residents of the Jourdain neighborhood seeking quality comfort food.
50 Rue de la Villette, 75019 Paris
Le Faitout
Ⓥ Vegan Restaurant
Walking past Le Faitout, one wouldn’t expect its vegan origins. Surprisingly discreet, diners enter into a warmly lit classical French bistrot featuring a wrap around bar. At this convivial restaurant, patrons are greeted by a friendly staff and local brews. The plant based cheese is texturally delightful, and the generous portions make this restaurant a classic go to spot for both tapas and French vegan comfort food. Plan ahead, and you might even make it to one of their lauded jazz nights!
23 Avenue Simon Bolivar, 75019 Paris
+33 (0)1 42 08 07 09
www.lefaitout.fr
Grand Marché Stalingrad
Set in the historic Rotonde de la Villette (built 1788) under the elevated line 2 of the Paris metro, this fancy footcourt makes for a pleasant lunch or dining experience. The outdoor terrace is a pleasant spot to have a drink when summer comes, as cheap eateries set their stands on the adjacent square.
6-8 Place de la Bataille de Stalingrad, 75019 Paris
+33 (0)1 80 48 33 40
www.grandmarchestalingrad.com
La Plage
41 Quai de l’Oise, 75019 Paris, France
+33 (0)1 75 51 90 09
www.laplage19.com
Le Square
What’s not to love about the location of this cute neighborhood café, overlooking a tree-planted square leading to the Parc des Buttes-Chaumont? The terrace is a must to escape the hustle-and-bustle of the nearby Rue de Belleville.
7 Square Bolivar, 75019 Paris
lesquare.paris
Tonton Jaurès
174 Avenue Jean Jaurès, 75019 Paris
+33 (0)1 42 08 08 13
www.tontonjaures.fr
GRABBING A DRINK
Le Bar Fleuri
Check out this unassuming neighborhood bar for a typically Parisian experience. Facing the contemporary art center Le Plateau, le Bar Fleuri is in the heart of a pleasant neighborhood south of the Parc des Buttes-Chaumont.
1 Rue du Plateau, 75019 Paris
BarOurcq
Drawing a constant crowd of local hipsters, this bar has an ideal location by the Bassin de la Villette. A perfect spot for to relax after a game of pétanque by the water.
68 Quai de la Loire, 75019 Paris
barourcq.free.fr
Café Bolivar
A classic Parisian café close to the Bolivar métro station. Enjoy a drink on the terrace sprawling around the street corner before exploring the Canal Saint-Martin, the Bassin de la Villette or the Parc des Buttes-Chaumont.
+33 (0)1 42 00 17 52
https://cafebolivar.fr
Café Caché
The “hidden café” is a great place to have a drink while exploring the cultural center Le Centquatre. The Café Caché has a pleasant patio and hosts regular events such as creative workshops and art exhibits.
+33 (0)1 42 05 38 40
www.cafecache.fr
Café Mama Kim
Close to the Canal de l’Ourcq, this charming corner bar welcomes a lively crowd of locals. It features various events such as reggae nights, cervoise tastings, and art events.
13 Rue de Thionville, 75019 Paris
Café Odilon
Lovely little café directly facing the Canal de l’Ourcq. The Café Odilon serves pizza and organic wines.
+33 (0)1 40 36 18 22
16 Quai de la Marne, 75019 Paris
Café Parisien
A charming corner café facing a peaceful little square, the Café Parisien is the perfect spot to relax with a book while enjoying this little-known neighborhood of the French capital.
2 Place de Rhin et Danube, 75019 Paris
Le Comité
Recently opened, Le Comité is a charming neighborhood bar facing the entrance to the Parc des Buttes-Chaumont. Design-minded patrons will appreciate the tasteful interior decoration.
6 Rue Botzaris, 75019 Paris
La Foisonnante
Located at a street corner of the lively Avenue Jean Jaurès, close to the Bassin de la Villette and the verdant Parc des Buttes-Chaumont, this artsy café features an ambitious event calendar including concerts, open mics and drag shows. 🏳️🌈
123 Avenue Jean Jaurès, 75019 Paris
Grande Fantaisie
This floating bar-café also acts as a cultural center, featuring live art performance and regular exhibits. The péniche is managed by a local association aiming to bring together artists and residents of the neighborhood.
3 Quai de l’Oise, 75019 Paris
Le Local Rock
Unassuming little bar on the edge of the Parc de la Villette.
206 Avenue Jean Jaurès, 75019 Paris
Pavillon Puebla
This hip bar-café with a wide terrace overlooks a peaceful alley of the Parc des Buttes-Chaumont. The location is ideal, but prices remain above average for the neighborhood.
Parc des Buttes Chaumont, Avenue Darcel, 75019 Paris
https://leperchoir.tv/location/le-pavillon-puebla
Pavillon des Canaux
A lovely pavilion on the banks of the Bassin de la Villette, a popular chilling spot for the residents of Eastern Paris. The venue is furnished like a real house which patrons can explore, chosing to sit in the living room, kitchen – or even in the bathroom’s tub!
39 Quai de la Loire, 75019 Paris
www.pavillondescanaux.com
Péniche Antipode
Péniche Antipode is a floating café-bar and concert venue moored at the Bassin de la Villette. It offers surpringly low prices, a large terrace on the water, ethical products, and even an indoor venue. Managed by the local association Abricadabra, it features regular concerts as well as community and cultural events including theatre.
Facing 55 Quai de la Seine, 75019 Paris
www.penicheantipode.fr
Rosa Bonheur
This historic queer “guinguette” boasts one of the best locations in Eastern Paris, sitting atop of the lush Parc des Buttes-Chaumont. Surrounded with a large terrace area, this lovely venue is very popular with Parisians and visitors alike, therefore large crowds can be expected – especially in the summertime. Make sure to check out the busy events calendar! 🏳️🌈
2 Avenue de la Cascade, 75019 Paris
rosabonheur.fr
TDTF
This hip bar close to the Lumière métro station features regular art exhibits. It is a great neighborhood spot to chill while playing foosball or enjoying a tasty planche of cheese and charcuterie.
43 Rue Cavendish, 75019 Paris
Le 61
This chill neighborhood bar hosts regular news-related events, with a specific focus on photojournalism. Le 61 is nicely located, close to the canal and a stone’s throw from the cultural and concert venues of the Parc de la Villette.
3 Rue de l’Oise, 75019 Paris
http://www.61paris.fr
LATE NIGHT & CONCERTS
À la Folie
Take a relaxing break while exploring the La Villette area in one of its “Folies”, the modern red buildings adorning norteast Paris’ iconic green space. One of the most popular of these pavilions, À la Folie boasts a dense cultural program and hosts popular club nights. 🏳️🌈
Parc de La Villette, Folie L2, 26 Avenue Corentin Cariou, 75019 Paris
+33 (0)7 76 79 70 66
alafolie.paris

Cabaret Sauvage
Overlooking the Canal de l’Ourcq from the banks of the Parc de la Villette, the Cabaret Sauvage opened in 1997 and remains one of Paris’ most unconventional music venues. Shaped like a circus tent surrounded with a large outdoor terrace, this colorful concert hall features many international artists and lively club nights.
59 Boulevard Macdonald, 75019 Paris
+33 (0)1 42 09 03 09
www.cabaretsauvage.com

Espace B
This unassuming café-bar and concert venue is just a few steps away from the Canal Saint-Denis and the Parc de La Villette. Live music enthusiasts appreciate the Espace B’s indie line-up and intimate yet vibrant setting.
16 Rue Barbanègre, 75019 Paris
+33 (0)9 84 54 19 83
espaceb.net
La Gare Jazz
Housed in a former train station of the Petite ceinture, this avant-garde venue opened in 2017. Specializing in jazz music, La Gare really comes to life after dark! Check out its ambitious event calendar to see some of the best jazz shows in Paris.
1 Avenue Corentin Cariou, 75019 Paris

Glazart
Now a staple of Parisian nightlife, Glazart brings together clubbers and artists of all horizons. On the edge of Paris, a short walk from the Porte de la Villette metro station, this atypical venue features a wide range of electronic and alternative music genres: techno, house, metal, rock, trance, dub, hardtek, dubstep, etc. Since 2010, Glazart also features an outdoor venue aptly called LaPlage (sand may be involved), open from June to September.
7-15 Avenue de la Porte de la Villette, 75019 Paris
+33 (0)1 40 36 55 65
www.glazart.com
Philharmonie de Paris
Designed by star architect Jean Nouvel, the majestic Philharmonie de Paris opened in 2015 at the edge of the Parc de la Villette. Mainly dedicated to symphonic concerts and jazz, but occasionally featuring rock and electro gigs, the 2,400-seat venue offers reduced fares – such as €10 tickets – for young audience members.
221 Avenue Jean Jaurès, 75019 Paris
+33 (0)1 44 84 44 84
philharmoniedeparis.fr

Le Trabendo
One of the major music venues located in the retro-futuristic Parc de la Villette, Le Trabendo features about 160 concerts and club nights per year, as well as seasonal festivals. Boasting a capacity of 700, the concert hall defends an ambitious program while making sure musicians remain as close as possible to the audience, the interactions with the stage being Le Trabendo’s hallmark.
Parc de la Villette, 211 Avenue Jean Jaurès, 75019 Paris
+33 (0)1 42 06 05 52
www.letrabendo.net
Zenith Paris – La Villette
211 Avenue Jean Jaurès, 75019 Paris
+33 (0)1 44 52 54 56
www.zenith-paris.com
🏳️🌈 : Regular LGBTQ+ nights and events
Photos:
Article © S.T. – Unless otherwise stated